Minsuk Kang

Koreans and Americanos

Today I went to a coffee shop that serves only filter coffee. Unlike many other cafes in Korea, it has neither desserts nor Americanos. Every time I visit this coffee shop, I wonder how many times the owner has had to answer some version of the question, "Do you have Americanos?"

As I sipped my coffee and watched my wife pat our sleeping baby's back in a baby carrier, I saw three middle-aged women enter the shop. "Please respect other guests in this space. We ask everyone to refrain from loud conversations," read a sign next to the menu. The women didn't seem to notice it. They asked each other, "What do you want? I'll just have an Americano!" and ordered three Americanos in loud voices.

"We don't have Americanos. We only serve filter coffee, so please choose one of the beans on the menu," the owner said.

"I want something that isn't sour!" one of them replied. The owner recommended beans from Brazil or Colombia, saying they would taste similar to an Americano.

I was curious about a few things. First, why didn't these women even bother to learn more about the coffee shop? They didn't read the menu. They didn't care what the owner had to offer. They came to a cafe and demanded their own version of an Americano. Second, why do so many Koreans order Americanos, especially iced ones, every time they visit a coffee shop? When I ran a sandwich shop, we had filter coffee on the menu. Many customers asked for Americanos and seemed perfectly satisfied when they were handed cups of black coffee. Some of our guests thought Americano meant black coffee.

One explanation is that the Americano has become Korea's most popular energy drink. People drink it in the morning or after lunch because their bodies demand a quick dose of caffeine. They drink iced Americanos even in the freezing winter because it's not really about taste or warmth. An iced Americano is the easiest way to give their brains enough energy to get through another day.

To many Koreans, the Americano has also become like a bowl of rice or a side of kimchi. Koreans, including myself, can't eat pizza without pickles, instant ramen without kimchi, or sushi without rakkyo. Our taste buds demand something to cleanse our mouths whenever we eat something salty, sweet, or greasy. An iced Americano after a meal is a perfect way to wash away all the lingering flavors. It's almost like mouthwash.

Millions of Americanos are served every day in Korea. Ordering one has become such a routine that many of us don't even think about what we're drinking. Who harvested the beans? Who pulled the espresso shot? What did the barista want this Americano to taste like? We rarely ask these questions. We just want our usual cup of iced Americano, preferably as quickly as possible.

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